miércoles, 9 de mayo de 2007

10 April to 10 May - From Brazil to London

After the spectacular Fernando de Noronha island I went back to Natal. From there the day after I rented a buggie and went driving with other people to Pipa, my next destination. Pipa was nice, lovely beaches and good atmosphere, even I was alone there for 2 nights but I enjoyed it very much. The best thing was the posibility of swim with dolphins. The water was again very blue but wasnt transparent, but once in a while you could see a dolphin at 2 metres from you! that was amazing!
From Pipa I went to Recife... rough city and ugly, so I decided to spend my time there going to visit the neighbour Olinda. I arrived when was getting dark, so I only had the chance to see a bit of the beautiful city.
Day after I arrived to Rio de Janeiro. I went to my friends Alistair Penthouse in Ipanema! that was so great, 5 minutes from the beach, my own room and Alistair showing me around and taking me out at night! I spend 6 days there and I loved it. Rio is just great, and the fact of being in a flat there and having the freedom to do what I wanted! I loved Rio. The landscapes are amazing, the sugar loaf, the Christ, Ipanema beach, Copacabana..... Just great!
I had a wonderful time in Rio and I decided to take it easy and enjoy it as was my final stop before having to return to Spain.
Alistair again was a perfect host, I have to thank him from here!
19th of april was my last day... I took my flight to Sao Paolo and from there to Barcelona where my family was waiting for me.
21st April was Juli's wedding and I was one of the witness. the wedding was fun and was so nice to see all my university friends again! we laughed, danced, drink and catched up! was a good return after my holiday... until the day after.... when I got sick.
I thought was the depression of having to return... then it got worst.. high fever, and blisters inside my mouth, tongue and gums..... rush to the hospital just in case was a tropical disease... but no, was just mononucleosis.. quite common disease but very uncomfortable as it leaves u really weak for weeks... so here I am, back in london... feeling tired... depressed for being here again... and very weak!
Almost 3 weeks since I came back from Rio now.. can't believe everything has finished!
Now back to normal and looking for a job.. any offers?

martes, 10 de abril de 2007

05 to 09 April, Fernando de Noronha, Brazil





Fernando de Noronha is PARADISE!!
I arrived there on a thursday and just started to rain.... if you ever go there try to avoid the rainy season!! But well is not so bad, it rains and after that the sun is up in the sky again, but a bit annoying!
Such an amazing island! The beaches are gorgeous, clear water and almost empty! Three of the beaches of the island are the 3 best beaches in the whole Brazil, but really, I dont understand what is the difference with the rest of the beaches in the island as all of them are stunning!
I did a boat trip and sailed with dolphins around me, and then I did some swimming surrounded by colourful fish and turtles!
There are also some strange animals on the main land, like huge Reptils and a kind of big hamster that i also forgot the local name.
There are some beaches that you can be completely alone, wow, so amazing! That allowed me to do some naked sunbathing.. and of course my bum got burned!
The sunsets with a Caipirinha are spectacular!
I also meet some local people there and that was good as I went for dinner to good places and I also cood taste the really good AÇAI! The people I meet were fantastic!
I liked so much the island I just changed my flight and stayed one day more... but you have to be careful! Fernando de Noronha is very expensive and accomodation is the same price as London! That was expensive!

miércoles, 4 de abril de 2007

31 March to 4 April, Salvador de Bahia & Morro de Sao Paolo, Brazil

I arrived at 11.30 pm the 31st March in Salvador de Bahia. My friends Alexander and Daniela, the brazilian couple I met in Patagonia were already waiting for me in the airport and we went straight to check in at the hostel and we had a beer before going to bed. Alexandre and Daniela are GREAT!!! They have been taking care of me the whole time, showing me all the best of Salvador and surroundings, taking me to taste the most wonderful meals and even cooking for me in a Brazilian goodbye dinner.
The First day in Salvador we actually went in a boat trip the whole day. We took a boat that took us first to Ilha de Fraire, where there was this really nice beach and after that to Ilha Itaparica, the usual holiday island for all the people from Salvador. The trip was very nice, having caipirinhas and listening to live music on the boat. After that, we went for dinner to the best Acarajé in Salvador... hmmm delicious! Dont make me explain what is it made of!
On Monday morning I left early and took again the boat but this time to Morro de Sao Paolo. This time my friends didnt come as I was staying the night in Morro and Alexandre had to work. Morro de Sao Paolo... WOW! That was Paradise!!! Amazing beaches, almost desertic, with warm and green waters and really nice sand. Brazilians dancing capoeira on the beach, and drinking caipirinhas or coconuts... The small village is very cute even is a bit turistic, but was worth staying one night there!! And because is not high season there were few tourists and everything for myself.
During the night they build some stands and everyone fights to offer you the best caipirinha o caipirosca, and there is live music for people to dance until late. I had a few caipirinas myself and I went to sleep not so early.
After that, on Tuesday I returned to Salvador and being my last day I had to see the city! so Alexandre was already there and he took me to the Polourinho, the historic town, to the churches... So nice!! and with the best guide. We picked up Daniela and we went to the Bom Fill church, with all its colorful ribbons, and after that we went to Polurinho again. We walked around, there was a live concert in a corner but we stayed almost all the time in a drum parade; kids playing drms and singing!! that was sooooo Good!!! we just stayed there for 1 or 2 hours listening and dancing, incredible! even the people around were good as at the end some guys started to dance to the sound of the music, and WOW how they danced!!! I must admit we drunk a bit too much beer, and we were just laughing for everything!

After that, quite late, I had my invitation to their house, for a goodbye dinner!!! I didnt know Daniela cooked so well!! I ate like if I never had eaten before. I havent got here my notes to explain what did I actually ate, the only think I remember is that almost everything had Coconut milk! Such a wonderful evening!



This morning I couldnt convince them that I could take a taxi on my own, so they picked me up early and before going to the airport they have taken me to a really nice lagoon, with amazing white sand. That was nice, and that was the end of my stay in Salvador!!!
Well, I really have found good friends in Alexandre & Daniela!!! They have treated me sooo well! Was bit sad to leave ... again! Thank you to you two!
Now in Natal and tomorrow flying again to the paradise of Fernando de Noronha island were I will be for 4 days.
Natal... I haven´t decided yet if I liked it or not, strange city, lots of surfers but not the architecture is not very nice. But has something.... I will be back here in 4 days.

lunes, 2 de abril de 2007

29 to 31 March, Iguazu Falls, Argentina - Brazil

I stayed in Iguazu for 2,5 days. I arrived a bit depressed after having such a wonderful time in Buenos Aires and having met such wonderful people. And there I was, back alone in my Hostel on the Argentinian side of the Iguazu falls. The good thing is that there was a big swimming pool and decided to take it easy and leave the visit of the falls for the next day, my idea of relaxing near the pool not bothering to talk to any of those young backpackers... And then I met her! Susana Ortega! IN IGUAZU and IN MY HOSTEL! For the people who dont know her, we studied together at school, and havent seen her for the last 7 or8 years! was incredible to meet there, such a coincidence! I was so happy! We spent the whole afternoon catching up with our lifes. She was with a friend, Aida. The three of us went for dinner and we ended up dancing Reggeaton in a Club until late! Was so funny to meet her there! I promised herI would do like a game for the people of my school to guess who I met with a picture of her backwards, but I havent had time to download pictures...
Well, Susana left the day after with the promise she is visiting me in London soon, and I went to see the falls on the Argentinian side. That was incredible! so nice! Have to upload some pictures to demostrate but as usual pictures dont show the reality... I did thousands of them! The argentinian side has a lot of walks to see the falls from differents ways, and I also did a small trekking to arrive to a small fall where I could swim. I also took a boat that takes you directly under one of the falls, and of course you end up soaked!
My last day was on the Brazilian side.... and from now on I will not leave Brazil until the end of my trip. The Brazilian side is smaller, and in two hours you can see the falls from another perspective. I did the visit with a Colombian friend I met on the bus and I need to send her some pictures as her camera broke down. Is worth doing both sides, but if I only had one dayI would probably do the Argentinian.
From there I took my flight to Salvador Bahia. My luck... there is a strike on air traffic controlers now in Brazil.... and Im taking 6 flights.. The one to Salvador was only 2 hours delayed, lets see if Im as lucky on the next ones.
As soon as I can I will upload pictures from Iguazu!

martes, 27 de marzo de 2007

26 & 27 March, Colonia de Sacramento & Montevideo, Uruguay



I have been two days in Uruguay. Yesterday morning I took a ferry from Buenos Aires to Colonia de Sacramento. Colonia is a nice city, very tiny but the old city has plenty of character. Lovely streets with nice houses, and nice city to walk around.
The weather wasnt very good, but didnt rain and was hot. Yesterday afternoon I took a Bus to Montevideo.
I arrived at 7 pm and after so many days going out and walking around in Buenos Aires I was so tired I only had energy to go out for quick dinner and bed.
Today I woke up early to go and visit the city. The weather was awful! grey and rainy, typical London day. I waked for 2 or 3 hours under the rain without seeing anything especially nice until I gave up. I went for lunch and because the rain stopped I decided to give another chance and well, I think there is not a lot to see here.. so now waiting for the ferry back to Buenos Aires.

lunes, 26 de marzo de 2007

21 to 25 March, BUENOS AIRES


I LOVE BUENOS AIRES!!!!!!!!!!!!
I really like Buenos Aires, everything of it. The city, the people, the atmosphere, the parks....
People here are gorgeous. The most beautiful men and women I have ever seen, and they are so friendly! No attitude and always trying to be nice and helpful.
When I just arrived I contacted a friend of my friend Jesus, his name is Eduardo. He is actually not argentinian, but a bolivian studying here. From the first time we met he took care of me and he showed me all the city, he took me for dinner, we went out partying... Well, he is great!! And he has been the only one inviting me for "mate", the national drink. I must admit I didnt like it, hahaha
We have been partying every single day. Nightlife is great and fun. During the day I havent stoped any moment. I have seen almost everything:
The Plaza de Mayo with the Madres de Mayo in front of the Casa Rosada. The beautiful and grand Recoleta, with it's great parks, the beautiful cemetry with Eva Peron´s tomb, the multiple craft makets around the city, The lovely Palermo Viejo withs it's trendy shops and bars, San Telmo, with the antiques, much better than Portobello market in London! The bit scary but touristic Boca, with the lovely colourful facades and Puerto Madero, with the conversion warehouses to luxury flats and bars.... well, havent done any museum or gallery, but still have a day left next wednesday.
I had so much fun and I have met such nice poeple here that I would love to stay a bit longer and I know it is not going to be easy to leave this city and my first days will be a bit sad.
Maybe is a good excuse to come back? For sure!

miércoles, 21 de marzo de 2007

19 - 21 Mazo, Rosario





Rosario was great.
I enjoyed it a lot, and loved the atmosphere of the city. Student city, with plenty of people on the streets, and god, its so hot here!
First day I saw the monument to the argentinian flag and walked near the river Parana. Very nice and thinking I was in the middle of the Amazonas, as the colour of the river and the vegetation probably are similar. Plenty of mosquitos! I hate them! They just bite my arms so much is very itchy now!
I went to MACRO the Contemporary Art Museum of Rosario. A bit disspointing...
And on the afternoon got lost walking on the streets.
yesterday i walked up eraly and I went to the other side of the city to see the only Alvaro Siza (architect) building in South America. It remind me I'm still an architect, hehe
After that i grabed a towel and I layed in the sun for 3 hours. On the river parana there are some beaches, and because is not high season I was almost alone there. The sun was too much and even I put sun protection I got burned! I had the courage of swimming on the river that had a rotten smell, but oh well, once i was there I had to try it. I walked back to town, and that was the reason i got sun burne as There was nos hadows on the way...
When i arrived to the hostel there were preparing a dinner with all the guests and there I met an english couple and a brazilian guy, and we were drinking until late.
this morning i catched the first bus and now I´m in Buenos Aires...

lunes, 19 de marzo de 2007

14 - 19 Marzo, Santiago de Chile a Rosario, Argentina

Its 7 am and I just arrived to Rosario after 11 hours of bus. This time I travelled in a comfy bus with dinner, breakfast and bed! That was a luxury. Before that?
From Chiloé I travelled 17 hours to Santiago de Chile (in not such a comfy bus...). In there I met my friends again and I sdtayed at their place. I stayed two days in Santiago. As I almost saw everything lasat time these two days I was very relaxed trying to organize my trip, going to see the Pablo Neruda house in Santiago, and having few drinks in the city. This time I had time to meet my university friend Laura. She took me to a great bar in the city where I got a bit drunk of Pisco sour (typical chilean drink). We also eat some Machas a la Parmesana, seafood with cheese! Mmmmmmmmmm!!!!
That was nice. Eva's uncle and auntie arrived to Santiago, and the five of us we took on friday the car and we head to Mendoza, Argentina. We also took Tintin the dog, the new member of the family. For all those who know about my friend Javi, you will already guessed the weekend in Mendoza was Javi torturing the dog! :-)
The car trip to Mendoza took us almost 9 hours! we stopped for a lovely lunch, but then we got few trafic jams and we had some problems on the border! So many papers we had to take that one was missing and almost we have to go back to Santiago after 5 hours of car drive! The road to the border was lovely, going through the Andes, that at that point is purely rock, so you see these amazing mountains of rock and you feel very little. I guess the road after the border is as impressive but it took us so long to solve the paper work that we did it on the dark and we missed all the landscape. Probably they saw it on they way back, but I missed it as I´m not going back to Chile now.
Mendoza is a nice city. Is not for the impressive architecture but is charming and lively with lots of terraces for having a drink outside. We stayed in a nice hotel. We had a house for ourselves, and the breakfast was impressive!
In Mendoza we ate so much I think I will go back with 5 more kilos! The meat is just excellent and we couldnt believe how cheap is everything. Wine is very good aswell and Javi and Eva bought 12 bottles to take back to Santiago. If I wasnt a backpacker I would have also bought some.
I probably should mention our saturday night (or Eva will kill me). After a lovely dinner and a few drinks we went back to the hotel and we decided to do a "trivial pursuit" contest. We divided in two teams and of course Our team won (Eva's uncle Javier, Eva and myself).
Yesterday we had another meat feast at lunchtime with some lovely wine and after that they left to go back to Chile and I stayed the whole afternoon in Mendoza waiting for my bus.
I travelled the whole night and I justa rrived, but too early to go to the hostel... thats why I'm here! I heard Rosario is lovely, I will let you know.

martes, 13 de marzo de 2007

11-13 Marzo, de Puerto Montt a Chiloé, Chile

From Ushuaia I flew to Puerto Montt, Chile. Puerto Montt is basically a Port and a quite ugly city, but I dont know why but I liked it. Is the first time on the trip I found a dangerous city, lot of drunks, drugs and prostitutes. The center is awful, but the part behind the bus station (the dangerous part) is nice, there are all these colourful old houses, falling down but with charm. My Hostel was somewhere there, and well, I was lucky and I had no problems. This area reminded me a bit to Valparaiaso but bit poorer.
I stayed in Puerto Montt two nights. I went to Angelmo, the port, where you can eat fresh fish. Quite nice but I found it a bit expensive for what it was. I ate the typical dish: "Locos". Was ok, not amazing. On the afternoon I was bored and I decided to go to the cinema. That was like feeling at home!
Yesterday I took the first bus in the morning and I crossed to the island of Chiloé, and went straight to the capital, Castro. The city is nice but small, and after 2 hours I already saw everything. The "palafitos", houses over the river, the cathedral all in wood... I ate here "Curantos" typical dish from Chiloé: sea food and meat! The plate was huge and was really worth it. Never seen musles so big!
Chiloé is nice, and as Jose already told me, reminds me a bit to Galicia, in Spain. Same kind of landscape, I suppose because the weather is similar and here rains a lot too.
I just realized that the trip I wanted to do the following 10 days is not worth it. Only if you have a car and you can stop wherever you want and when you want. Doing it alone by bus is not as nice and then I get stuck in small villages for a whole day, so I have decided to change my programme, and I'm heading to Santiago sooner than expected. So then I will join Javi, Eva and her uncles for a weekend to Mendoza, Argentina.
Before that I wanted to see pinguins so I have arrived to Ancud, in Chiloé where there are some pinguin colonies. I have a tour in an hour and after that I will take a 17 hour bus to Santiago.... boring....
Chiloé has surprised me as I have seen some contemporary architecture. Not very good but interesting. Now that I´m here I regret a bit for not compiling some information referent to Mathias Klotz, a good chilean architect that has some amazing houses over here. maybe is something to explore on my extra days in Santiago....

sábado, 10 de marzo de 2007

2 a 10 Marzo, de El Calafate a Ushuaia, Argentina

Hi again.
I´m back from my week trip around Patagonia. I have seen so many nice places and such beautiful things that I really have no words to describe all these.
I will try to resume my experiences since the last blog. I´m afraid I cant upload any pictures, I will try tomorrow from Puerto Montt, Chile.
I started my tour with a welcome dinner in El Calafate with some of the members of the same trip. We were only three, myself and a really nice brazilian couple, Aleixandre & Daniela. They are from Salavador Bahia, so probably I will meet them there in April. The day after I met the rest of the people. Sascha, a londoner that used to live in Barcelona so spoke spanish perfectly and she was my best friend for the next 10 days. And I also met Glen & Karen, a mature american couple. I dont know how to describe them and dont sound rude, but well, they were the typical conservative-Bush-american couple... quite annoying. The tour already began 4 days before me, starting in El Chalten (I did it myself) and by the time I started the tour in el Calafate Sascha already couldnt stand the americans. The guide Nico, was very nice and the rest of guides that we met on our trips were really nice too, so I´m very happy of having done this package tour.
3rd March they took us by bus to Torres del Paine National Park, in Chile, so we had to cross the border again. In there we spent 3 days doing only trekking and sleeping on tents on a camping site. First day we tried to do the Torres route, but we were not very lucky with the weather, was raining a lot and was very foggy and cloudy, so at half our way we decided to return as it was not worth finishing without being able to see the Torres. That was a shame as was the best way to see the Torres del Paine, but well, we had to forget about it.
On the following day we did an 8 hour hike to see the Grey Glacier. Was fantastic. From that day, the clouds dissapeareed and we had the most wonderful weather ever. Sunny and no clouds but it became really cold. Grey glacier was amazing, and the whole route too. The day after we did the French glacier route, again a 6 hour trekking trip. I never ever have walked so much, but I quite enjoyed it. The shame was doing it in group as we had to wait for the rest all the time.
There are no words to describe this National Park beauty. The mountains are so nice, and the lakes are a perfect blue, turquoise, that seems completley unreal or that have been worked out by Photoshop!!! Sascha told me that english has not so many words to describe nice or amazing things so she started to number the "amazing" views, being the top a "Fucking amazing" view. And really, everything was Fucking amazing!!!!
Sleeping on tents was fun until we woke one day at -8 C. You have no idea the pain to put your clothes on on that temperature! So cold! Since then I have a small cold that I'm trying to avoid taking medicine all time.
After spending those 3 days in Torres del Paine, we spend almost one day on the bus again. We crossed first the argentinian border and we head to Tierra del Fuego. We crossed the "Estrecho de Magallanes" by ferry, and we arrived to Tierra del fuego, the southern province in Argentina.
The landscape started to change, and we end up in one of the typical Argentinian Estancia. That was so nice! they were waiting us for dinner and gave us such a wonderful lamb! that was a good dinner after 4 days in a camping site. We ordered wine and we had a very nice meal. Almost at mid night they gave us some champagne. I was very touched as I thought it was because the day after was my birthday, but the truth is that they were celebrating the "International working women's day"!!! hahahaa
The 8th of March was my birthday. In the morning they showed us how to take the wool from the sheep in La Estancia. that was very intresting and after that we took again the minibus and they took us to a really nice lodge were we left the bags before doing a small trekking of 3 hours in Tierra de Fuego area. It was a very nice walk and after that we had another walk to see all the beavers (castores) in the area. That was very intresting too, and funny to see a beaver just crossing in front of you being in the wild. Tierra del fuego has a big problem with beavers as they were introduced here by the coloners and they are changing all the landscape in the area.
That night we celebrate my birthday with very good argentinian wine. That was very nice and different from all my other birthdays!
Yesterday, 9th March, we arrived finally to Usuhaia, the southern most city in the world, at the end of the world. We had again the most wonderful day, sunny, warm and no wind. The "Estrecho de Beagle" was very calm and the surface of the water was flat as a mirror. During the morning we did another hike to the Tierra de Fuego National Park. That was very easy and relaxed walk, and on the afternoon we took a small boat and we did a small tour through the Estrecho de Beagle. That was so fucking amazing again! I think the weather was so perfect! the water was so flat, and just reflexed all the landcsape around us. Unbelieveable! We saw Sea lions, pinguins and cormorans. 4 hours in that boat was sooooo worth it! I have taken so many pictures! but really, I think you need to experience it to realize how nice is everything.
On the evening I went for dinner with Nico and Sascha. Was our last night, today everybody is heading in differents ways. After dinner we went for a drink with the brazilians. I´m sure I will see Aleixandre and Daniela in Salvador Bahia and Sascha when I'm back in London. And no, I dont thing I will ever go to washington State to see Glenn & Karen!! LOL
This afternoon I'm flying to Puerto Montt, Chile and I'm intending to see the Chilean Patagonian on the next days. I will see on my way as maybe I decide to arrive before to Santiago Chile again and spend few days with my friends there.
Thanks for all the e-mails for my birthday, being on the other side of the world and knowing people stills remember you is very touching!

viernes, 2 de marzo de 2007

2 Marzo - Glaciar Perito Moreno, El Calafate, Argentina

Yesterday Patrizia cooked us an italian dinner as a goodbye after 5 days. The dinner was lovely and Ryu played the guitar for us. You cant believe how good a japanese can sing brasilian BossaNova. Was a great night and a very nice way to say good bye to all these people that we have been together for the last 5 days. I will probably see Laura, and maybe Lisa, in Buenos Aires.

This morning I woke up early and a tour took us to the Perito moreno glazier. My god! that was so nice! I just arrived to El Calafate and decided to post some pictures for you to see these amazing glazier. And now yes, from tomorrow starts my 9 day trip.. no internet.
The glazier was great and there were pieces of ice falling all the time into the water with an enormous noise. Amazing!
The bad thing? To be organized I already booked this tour and the 9 day trip from London, and obviously i found out that I have payed 2 times more than if I have done it from here.. Oh well, life!

jueves, 1 de marzo de 2007

Cronica de viaje - 25 Feb a 1 Marzo - El Calafate, Argentina






I took the Bus on the 25th at 6 am direction El Chalten. We went through the famous route 40. Its famous for being the worst road in Argentina. The first tram was lovely with views of lakes, but as being so early in the morning I felt asleep and missed it. After that, the view was from the typical Argentinian Pampa, nice but always the same so after few hours get boring. Was nice to go through kilometres and kilometres without seeing any town, house, people... only we could see Guanacos (similar to llamas but smaller and different colour) and we also saw condors, and an animal similar to an ostrich. from time to time we were stoping and suddenly there was a house that sold exquisite cakes... weird!

The second day of bus we stopped on some caves with really old drawings from indians 3.400 years BC. Was very nice, the landscape there and the paintings! very interesting.
I met a lot of poeple on the Bus and we became friends. Yuki, from Osaka, Ryu, from Tokyio, Laura and Lisa, italian, and Patrizia from Trieste, Italy. I also met a couple living in Geneva.
After two days we finally arrived to El Chalten. El Chalten is the trekking capital of Argentina.
In there I stayed one day and a half. First day I went with the swiss couple and we did a 8 hour hike to Laguna Cerro, where there is an amazing glacier. Its a shame the connections here are so bad so I cant upload some pictures. That hike was really nice.

The day after I did a tougher hike. I started with the swiss couple but as I didnt have as much time as them (I had to be at 6 in El Chalten to take my bus) I had to go faster and soon I started to walk alone. It was intended to be a 4.5 hour hike one way, and I did it in 3 hours! I was so exhausted! But, was soooo worth it! I think the views at the end was one of the nicer things I´ve seen in my life. I saw the Fitz Roy mountain in front of me, with a few glaciers and two amazing lakes with cristaline waters! Wow! soooo nice! I did like 100 pictures. There was snow up to my knees and me on trainers! I´m not well prepared at all!


After this hike that left me almost dead I returned to El Chalten and we took the bus to El Calafate where I am now. From here I will see the spectacular Perito Moreno glacier tomorrow and then I will start my 9 day trekking trip... so probably I will not be able to post anything for 10 days.
Patagonia is amazing but they live from tourism so here everything is bloody expensive.. And well.... they say about spanish.. but here there are tricking us all time, selling us things that are not completely true! But anyway, I'm really enjoying it!

sábado, 24 de febrero de 2007

Cronica de Viaje - 21 - 24 Febrero, Bariloche (Argentina)

Well..... back to civilisation!
The "once" on my Hospederia in Entre lagos was nice. I met there the other guy, that was not from Barcelona but a German that used to live in Majorca but he was living now in Chile. That was really good as he was a tourist guide, so I showed him my route and he gave me hints of places to stay, go & see. We spend 3 hours chating with the women of the house.. a really relaxing evening.... Then I took the bus to Anticura, in the border with Argentina and in the middle of Puyehue National Park. Thank god I missed that bus to Argentina or I would have missed the beautiful Puyehue. I arrived quite late to the Hostel. The place I was staying for the night was a normal cottage but done to accomodate 9 people. When I arrived there were already there 2 chilean guys. They were a bit quite but really nice poeple. After 1 hour a mother with 4 children arrived. It was really funny, they didnt arrive on time to the border and they had to stay until the day after. They remind me of one of those kid novels : "The Hollister".. haha was a funny night.
The day after, all of them left and I stayed to explore the Park. My intention was going to the Vulcano but the weather was not good, so I decided to stay near the Hostel. There were a lot of routes and I did them all. I was the only person visiting them and it was high season! Was very nice. Lots of waterfalls and nice woods. I really enjoyed it. The only bad thing is that the hostel didnt sell any food, so at lunchtime I went walking 2 km to "El Caulle" where I found a great restaurant. Was a bit expensive but was worth it. I had an enormous piece of meat, it was delicious! I loved the place and I truly recommend it if anyone goes around there. That night there wasnt anyone sharing with me the cottage so I had it for myself. I must admit it was a bit scary being there alone!
So finally yesterday I took the bus from Anticura to Villa La Angostura, Argentina. I arrived there at lunch time and I went straight to the hostel. Nice one, but had to share the room with 12 more people. I had a quick lunch and I went straight to Los Arrayanes National Park. 12 km walking in one direction! I did it in 2 hours and was lovely as there is the big lake beside you. At the end ther is this beautiful wood with Arrayanes, worth seeing it. After the 12 km you can take a boat and return through the lake but you must buy tickets before, thing that I didnt do.. so when I arrived at the end of the route, I just thought I would need to go back again the 12 km, and that was a problem as it was getting dark... but I was lucky and there was a place on the boat (I was so destroyed.,...) The return by the lake was amazing! Such a beautiful lake: Lake Nahuel Haupi. The waters are pristine, and clear, and they have these turquoise colour that if you dont see the mountains and snow on it surroundings you would think you are in the caribbean. Yesterday night after that trip I went to internet trying to send a few e-mails, and I forgot my jacket and camera on the internet cafe! After one hour I realized it and I went back. My jacket was there.. not the camera... but instead there was a note of this guy telling me to phone him... At the end I was lucky again and he had the camera! Would have been a disaster losing it! I feel lucky!
This morning I took the bus again to Bariloche, where I am right now. Bariloche is nice, quite big and reminds me to Puigcerda (town on the Pyrinees where I use to go to ski back in Spain). I am again on an hostel with wonderful views to lake Nahuel Haupi, and I have decided to rest for today as for the last 4 days I have been trekking every day.
I already booked my bus ticket to El Calafate. It takes 2 days to arrive from here.... but apparently the landscape is nice.. I will let you know when I can as I suspect I will be again for a few days with no internet.
I keep saying "coger" all the time.... and that is bad! ("Coger" means "to take" or "to grab" in Spain spanish but "to fuck" in argentinian spanish)
I will upload pictures as soon as I download them from my camera

miércoles, 21 de febrero de 2007

Cronica de Viaje - 21 Febrero - Puyehue

The visit today to Aguas Calientes, the entrance to the Puyehue National Park has been a bit dissapointing.
The landscape was nice, but nothing spectacular, and nothing new. The day was grey, very cloudy and I didnt even see the Vulcanos...
I woke up early and took the bus to Aguas Calientes. The guard advice us of the few routes for a 1 day trip... I think he was mistaken as there was a longer route that would have been nicer to do but I followed his advice and missed it. The good thing? I met a couple of travellers. She was german and he was southafrican. Really nice guys and I gave them my email just in case we travel together through the carretera austral, in the middle of march. We will see...
Aguas calientes was very massified with people.. so I decided to return early to Entre Lagos and head towards Argentina. I went to the tourism office and apparently I missed the last bus to Argentina, so I decided to go to Anticura, on the border of Argentina and in the middle of Puyehue Park. I will give it another try tomorrow, and try to do another trekking route. Hopefully the weather will be better. And friday I will go to Argentina.
I went to my hostal and the woman told me she invite me for "once" (tea), so I will be going in 5 minutes. Apparently just checked in another guy from Barcelona, would be funny to meet him, but staying here only until 8 pm.

martes, 20 de febrero de 2007

Cronica de Viaje - 20 Febrero - Entre Lagos, Chile

Here again. Now on a tiny internet cafe in the middle of nowhere. I am in Entre Lagos, near the Puyehue Natinal Park where I will be heading from tomorrow. I didnt find any accomodation inside the park so probably I will ahve to stay here and go by bus from here. I will go tomorrow and see if it is worth saying another night, if not I will cross to Argentina, heading to Bariloche.
today nothing exciting, I took the bus from Temuco to Osorno, 5 hours... watching Jackie Chan on the bus.... pffff.......
After that trying to sort out my night and finally heading with a small bus to here, Entre Lagos. this last bus was funny, I f there had been a cow inside it wouldnt have surprise me! People were starnge, very local.
In Entre lagos there is no tourist except me.. well, international tourism... The village is small but not bad, in front of Lake Puyehue... very nice. I forgot to go out with my swim trunks if not I would have had a swim.. and too many people looking to go naked!
I have been critisized by not explaining in detail our Domino game. Eva just won 3 of the 4 games we did.. she is an expert... i loved her tactics... but we must admit she was very lucky! hahaha

lunes, 19 de febrero de 2007

Cronica de Viaje - 17-18 Febrero - Conguillio

On saturday morning we took the flight from Santiago to Temuco.
Once there we rented a car, we were so happy with the choice! We drove for 2 hours to arrive to the natural park El Conguillio. The roads there were awful for our car!
We stayed the three of us on a Cottage, quite small and a bit cold.
Our cottages were on the base of the Llaima vulcano. The last eruption was in 1957 but the place is amazing.. all desertic as if you were on the moon. All the mountains beside the lava are plenty of these amazing trees called Araucarias.
We stayed three days in the Conguillio. First day we just went around by car. We stopped on Arco iris Lake. Spectacular! the clearest water I ever seen, and you could see the trees on the bottom of the lake, destroyed by the last eruption, with amazing colours. I hope the pictures reflect what we saw in real life.
We walked around laguna verda and Conguillio Lake.
the day after we woke up early and javi and myself went up the mountains trekking. We walked around 3-4 hours, and the views of the vulcano and the lake were great! the day before we arrived to the Park snowed a lot, quite rare for the summer, and there was plenty of snow while we were trekking up the mountain. My face is red again beacuse of the sun! My mother will kill me!
Today we woke up eraly again and we went for three hours riding horses. was so nice riding on that desertic place. I would have taken so many pictures...
Now we drove back to Temuco, and Javi and Eva are returning to Santiago and I´m starting my trip alone! scary!
I´m not feeling very well.. (stomach problems...) and I hope I get well as i feel so uncomfortable.
javi is returning home with my pictures and he will be posting them on this blog soon.
I´m going to miss them, they have been really nice with me, and they are trying to convince me to change my route so we can do another trip together before I fly to Buenos Aires.. We will see, that is going to be in a month!

viernes, 16 de febrero de 2007

Cronica de Viaje - 16 Febrero

My original plan was staying a night in Viña del Mar, but as I didnt like it I decided to return to Santiago. I finally didnt meet Laura as she was busy that night, but maybe I will meet her tonight, so i ended up having a lovely dinner at Javi´s and Eva´s place. We drunk 2 bottles of chilean wine between the three of us, so was at the end our conversationw as quite funny.
Becuase i liked so much pablo Neruda´s house yesterday I decide today to see his main house in Isla Negra, at 2 1/2 hours from Santiago.
So this morning I catched the bus and isla negra was last stop. At the end I was the only one in the bus stopping at Isla Negra. Isla negra is a place by the sea. Quite awful area, but there are some nice houses with wonderfuls views to the Pacific, and neruda´s was one of those.
The house, again, was incredible. Neruda was an excentric coleccionist. He collected almost everything, from glass bottles, to tribal masks, or shells... All displayed on the house, and really worth the two hours by bus. His tomb is also in there, looking at the ocean.
After the visit, there is nothing else to do, so I go for lunch in a typical road bar and back to santiago.
Today is cold here, and my summer jumper is not very warm. Bit of a contrast with yesterday.. I didnt put protection and my face and neck is awfully burnt!
Tomorrow, javi, Eva and myself we are taking the flight to Temuco, and from there we are going by car to Conguillio Natural Park where we will be spending 3 days, trekking or riding horses. After that my real trip starts alone. I will try to post something on monday, after the Conguillio trip.

jueves, 15 de febrero de 2007

Cronica de Viaje - 14 - 15 Febrero

I met Javi and his friend for lunch and after that they took me to the typical "Cafe con Piernas". I couldnt believe it! Was so funny! At 3 pm we where inside a small room, all dark with fluorescent lights, a small bar in U shape, all men around having coffee as the most natural thing in the world and in the middle of the Bar 2 women with no clothes..well, just minimal bikinis , but minimal! and they only serve coffes! Was so weird being there and not having at least a Gin and Tonic! Obviously I couldnt take pictures in a place like that but you must go to a cafe con piernas if you come to Santiago one day.
After that I was alone again, and I walked to Barrio Brasil. I really liked the atmosphere and as first impression, this is the place I would probably lived if I lived in Santiago. I saw really nice cafes, and is not a touristic zone at all.
I crossed half the city to go to the Bellas Artes Museum. The building is beautiful and is worth just to go inside only to have a look at the main Atrium. There where few interesting exhibitions.
From there I walked to Barrio Bellavista, known for its colorful facades and its cafes and restaurants. This is the place to go out at night. Was nice to walk around and I ended up on the base of Cerro (hill) San Cristobal. From there I took a "funicular" (sorry my english is not so good!) and I went up the Hill. The views are great, and you can see the enormity of the city... it extends kilometres and kilometres and you can see the Andes on the back.
On top of this Hill there is a big statue of the Virgin Mary (as per Rio de Janeiro). On the base of this statue there is a small chapel where people leave candles to the virgin. The funny thing is that they leave the candles with the bag, so there was plenty of colourful bags on the floor with the candles. Didnt take a picture as there were people praying.
I went down the Hill and had a beer in one of the trendy places in Bellavista. Alone....
Javi picked me up from there and we went to pick up Eva. From there we went to a typical Chilean place called "El restaurante de Doña Tina" where we had a great chilean meal. Was a lovely evening and we took few pictures.
This morning I took the Bus and I went to Valparaiso. Valparaiso is caothic. The city is ugly but if you go up the small hills with the Ascensores (lifts) you can see these colourful houses, similar to fabelas, but quite safe. I have done plenty of pictures of them.
I had lunch in this really nice restaurant "Cafe Vinilo" in one of the Hills. I loved the place, and from there I have gone walking to La Sebastiana, Pablo Neruda´s house in Valparaiso. The waiter on the restaurant told me was 10 minutes walk but 40 minutes I arrived exhausted. But its really worth the visit! that was really interesting and I loved that house.
From there I have taken a bus to Viña del Mar, where I am now. Viña del mar is famous for it's beaches and because people from Santiago come here in Summer. My god! IS AWFUL! I didnt like it at all, and after this post I will go back to Santiago. This is worse than Benidorm!
This evening maybe I meet Laura, a friend from university that now lives here. Would be good to see her!
By the way.. who said travelling alone was easy to meet people? :-)

miércoles, 14 de febrero de 2007

Cronica de Viaje - 12-13 Febrero 2007

After a nightmare trip taking 3 planes and hearing kids screaming for 13 hours I arrived to Santiago de Chile on Tuesday 12th February at 9.30 am.
I went directly to Javi´s house where I had a shower and I waited for him and Eva, his girlfriend to pick me up to go out for lunch.
They took me near where they live to Las Condes, on the "financial district" or one of the best parts of Santiago to live.
Lunch was great, but the best was being able to have lunch on a terrace with the sun. I love the summer!
After that, Javi drove me to the center and left me in "La Moneda". I followed the Lonely planet walk sugestion, and in 2 hours I saw all what you need to see of Santiago! Not much.
La Moneda is a free short visit, and I forced myself to go to the Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino. Interesting but not so much! I prefered the temporary exhibition about differents hats of the Aztecs, mayas, etc.
I entered a few churches and what surprised me was not the magnificient architecture but how religious is the people here in comparition with Europe. People from all backgrounds, ages, where bowing to the Virgin, praying and there was even cues to have confession!
I havent get used yet to travel alone. Where do I meet people? in the street? hahaha
I saw a guy with the Lonely planet around Plaza de Armas, the nicest square in Santiago and I followed him a bit, but I thought it was so ridicolous that I finally went on my own way. So well, I guess I will meet people once I´m completely alone on the middle of Chile.
Javi and Eva organized a dinner that night with spanish people at their place. At the end we where 9 people, was very nice and we laughed a lot. The party ended up almost at 2 am. I was so tired with the jet lag....
This morning I went to Las Condes, to do some architectural pictures and now I´m waiting for my friend Javi to go out for lunch. After that he will take me to the "must thing to do in Santiago¨: go for a coffee to one of "cafe de piernas". Apparently, women in bikini serve you the coffee. Will be fun and I will explain you on my next Cronichle!
I dont know when I will be able to issue some pictures as first I need to download them from my digital camera.